Shall we date?: Wizardess Heart + Caesar Piglet Plushie Crochet Pattern

Hello everyone!

On this page you can find the completely free pattern to crochet your own Caesar Piglet. This is my the first pattern I designed on my own so please don't be too hard on me, if you judge its look. I'm not 100% satisfied with the pattern myself and I might tweak it a little at some later time, but for now I post here the free pattern for you.

I got permission from NTT Solmare for this project and you are very welcome to post me your thoughts, improvements or anything else you want to say about the plushie.

Here is also the link to download the PDF of the pattern:
 

Currently I'm working on Taffy, I just have to decide, if I make his vest separately, so it would be removable, or if I make it part of the body... What do you think?

Dawn's Otome Crochet Arts

 

With permission from the game company © NTT Solmare.
Be aware that this plushie is a fanart – it‘s NOT made to sell the finished piglet and all copyrights (except for the crochet pattern), go to © NTT Solmare, who invented and designed the character “Caesar“. The boy, who transforms into a piglet, is part of the © NTT Solmare game “Shall we date?: Wizardess Heart +“
© Copyright for the pattern design and pictures of the crochet piglet, go to Dawn Eire 2018.
Don‘t sell the finished product, pattern or pictures! If you want to repost the pattern or pictures, please let me know and credit me back. You‘re of course very welcome to give the piglet to your friends and fellow gamers as a gift. In that case, I would be more than happy to see your finished piglet, so please send me a picture (if you want to ^^)
Be also aware that this plushie is not made for little children up to 6 years. There are small parts that can easily come undone and swallowed. I recommend to make the piglet without the cloak and the necklace for little children or to sew the cloak to the body and to use safety eyes.

Pattern for Caesar the Piglet

(finished piglet is about 16 cm/6,5 inches tall and 10 cm/4 inches wide
Gauge: 20 stitches per row for 10 cm/ 4 inches

Materials:

 

- worsted weight yarn in following colours:

• white
• crème
• yellow
• red
• light pink
• peach
• brown
• green (only if you felt the eyes)
• black

- Hooks in size 3,5 mm/USA = E/UK= 9 and 2 mm/USA = B or smaller/UK = 14
- 1 small bead in yellow and one larger in blue
- either felting needle, green/blue buttons, felt in green/blue colour or safety eyes, depending on how you want to make the eyes
- rice or poly pellets for filling the body
- needle for sewing
- fibrefill
- stitch marker
- pins for securing parts while sewing
- scissor

Abbreviations:

- ch: chain stitch
- sc: single crochet
- sl: slip stitch
- Rnd: round
- Inc: increase (unless otherwise mentioned, work 2 sc in the same sc)
- Dec: decrease (work 2 sc together)
- hdc: half double crochet (twist yarn around the hook before you pull up a loop through the next stitch. Then pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook. Tutorial → Here)
- dc: double crochet (like the hdc twist yarn around hook, get a loop through the next stitch, but instead of pulling the yarn through all 3 loops at once, only pull it through 2. Now you have 2 loops remaining on your hook. Pull yarn through those 2 to finish the dc. Tutorial → Here)
- trc: tremble crochet (is made like the dc, but instead of twisting the yarn only once around the hook, twist it twice around the hook and then crochet like with the dc until you only have one look left on your hook. Tutorial → Here)
- MR: Magic Ring or Magic Circle (instead you can also work ch 2 and sc in the 2nd stitch from hook as many times, as described for the MR. Tutorial for the MR → Here)
- BLO: Back Loops Only (crochet only in the upper loop of the sc in the row. If you want to learn how to crochet BLO, click → Here. For better understanding look below.)
- FO: Fasten of

Helpful Pages:

- Moogly - Best blog with video instructions, if you want to learn various types of crochet techniques
- Tutorial on Craftsy to learn the basics
- Lion Brand for material and patterns
- Etsy for material
- Amigurumipatterns.net to find other interesting free patterns

Head

(Start with light pink yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rounds)

Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc in the MR (6 stitches total)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, Inc) around (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, Inc) around (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, Inc) around (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, Inc) around (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, Inc) around (42)
Rnd 8-15: Sc around for 8 rounds (42)
Rnd 16: (5 sc, Dec) around (36)
If you want to use safety eyes, place them now, otherwise it‘ll be difficult, once the opening gets too small. I used felt to make the eyes and positioned them on round 9-10, with about 6 stitches apart.
Rnd 17: (4 sc, Dec) around (30)
Start to stuff the head and keep stuffing while working
Rnd 18: (3 sc, Dec) around (24)
Rnd 19: (2 sc, Dec) around (18)
Rnd 20: (1 sc, Dec) around (12)
Rnd 21: Dec around (6)
sl and FO, leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body.
If you haven‘t already stuffed the head to make it into a firm little ball, then do so now. If you add too little fibrefill, the head will loose its shape after sewing the ears and the muzzle on.
Close the gap with whip-stitching through the remaining 6 sc and then pulling lightly on the yarn. Don‘t worry, if there is still a hole, it won‘t be seen after you sewed the head to the body.

Body

(With light pink yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rounds)

Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc in the MR (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, Inc) around (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, Inc) around (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, Inc) around (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, Inc) around (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, Inc) around (42)
Rnd 8-12: Sc around for 5 rounds (42)
Rnd 13: (5 sc, Dec) around (36)
Rnd14-16: Sc around for 3 rounds (36)
Rnd 17: (4 sc, Dec) around (30)
Rnd 18: Sc around (30)
Rnd 19: (3 sc, Dec) around (24)
Rnd 20-24: Sc around for 5 rounds, sl and FO. (24)

Front legs

(Start with brown yarn, 3,5 mm hook, work in rounds, make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, work 5 sc in the MR (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 3: Work in BLO, sc around (10)
Rnd 4: Sc around (12)
Change to light pink.
Rnd 5-6: Sc around for 2 rounds (10)
Rnd 7: (4 sc, Inc) around (12)
Rnd 8-9: Sc around for 2 rounds (12)
sl and FO, leave a long tail for sewing

Hind Legs

(Start with brown yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rounds, make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc in the MR (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: Work in BLO, sc around (12)
Rnd 4: Sc around (12)
Change to light pink .
Rnd 5-6: Sc around for 2 rounds (12)
Rnd 7: (3 sc, Inc) around (15)
Rnd 8-10: Sc around for 3 rounds (15)
sl and FO, leave a long tail for sewing

Tail

(With light pink yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rows)

Ch 6
Crochet in the 2nd stitch from hook - 3sc in same loop.
3 sc in each of the remaining 4 sc.
FO. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Knot both, the yarn-tail from the start and the yarn-tail you left for sewing, together so you can be sure that the first ch won‘t come loose.

Ears

(With light pink yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rows, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 2, crochet in the 2nd stitch from hook - 3sc in the same loop, ch 1, turn (3)
Row 2: Inc, 1 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (5)
Row 3: Sc across, ch 1, turn (5)
Row 4: Inc, 3 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (7)
Row 6-10: Sc across, ch 1, turn } 5 times (7)
FO. Leave long tail for sewing

Hearts in the ears

(With peach yarn & 2 mm hook, work in rows and as tiny, as possible, keeping a firm grip on the yarn, make 2)

ch 6
Start from the 2nd stitch from hook
2 sc
Next work 3 sc in the same stitch.
2 sc, ch 1, turn
2 sc, skip 1 sc
2 sc, FO. Leave a long tail for sewing

Nose/Muzzle

(With peach yarn & 2 mm hook)

 

5 ch
Crochet in the 2nd stitch from hook - 3 trc in same stitch.
In the next sc, work 2 dc in same next sc.
1 hdc and 1 sc in next stitch.
1 sl in last ch
Now we work on the other side of the beginning chains, so turn the work a bit and start on the other side from the chain with another sl.
1 sc and 1 hdc in next stitch.
In the next sc, work 2 dc in same next sc.
3 trc in same stitch. FO. Leave a long tail for sewing

Cloak

(With red yarn & 3,5 mm hook, work in rows)

Row 1: Ch 16 16
Row 2: Start from the 2nd stitch from hook, Inc, 6 sc, Inc, 6 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn 18
Row 3: Inc, 16 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn 20
Row 4: Sc across, ch 1, turn 20
Row 5: Inc, 6 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 6 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn 2
Row 6: Inc, 20 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn 24
Change to yellow yarn
Row 7: Inc, 22 sc, Inc, FO.

Now turn your work upside down. Start with the white yarn. Tie it to the tail of the first chain, from where your started and work on the other side of the chain row.

Row 1: To make the first sc, make first a slip stitch, then make a sc in the same stitch. 15 Sc, ch 1, turn (15)
Row 2-3: Sc across, ch 1, turn for 2 rows (15)
Row 4: Inc, 13 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (17)
Row 5: Sc across, ch 1, turn (17)
Row 6: Inc, 15 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (1)9
Row 7-8: Sc across, ch 1, turn for 2 rows (19)
Row 9: Inc, 17 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (21)
Row 10-12: Sc across, ch 1, turn for 3 rows (21)
Change to yellow
Row 13: Inc, 19 sc, Inc, ch 1, turn (23)
Change to red
Row 14-15: Sc across, ch 1, turn for 2 rows (23)
Change to yellow
Row 16: Inc, 21 sc, Inc. FO. (25)

Tooth

(With crème yarn, 3,5 mm hook, work in rounds)

Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc in the MR (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: Work in BLO, sc around (12)
Rnd 4-8: Sc around for 5 rounds (12)
Rnd 9: Dec, 10 sc (11)
Rnd 10: Sc around, stuff slightly and keep on stuffing (11)
Rnd 11: Dec, 9 sc (10)
Rnd 12: Dec, 8 sc (9)
Rnd 13: Dec, 7 sc (8)
Rnd 14: Dec, 6 sc (7)
Rnd 15: Dec, 5 sc (6)
Rnd 16: Dec, 4 sc (5)
Rnd 17: Dec, 3 sc (4)
Rnd 18: Dec, FO. (3)

Stuff until you have a firm tooth. Close the hole with whip-stitching through the remaining 3 sc, then pull the yarn slightly.

Assemble:

1 - Head to Body:

First, fill the body. To make the piglet more stable, I filled rice into the body. You can also use other things like stones, but they give the plushie a strange shape. I recommend to NOT use beans, since it already happened that they start to sprout, if the plush was placed somewhere humid, or that they started to go mouldy.

You can also use Poly-Pellets, which was specially made for this purpose, but rice is cheaper ^^

Before you add the rice or Ply Pellets, I recommend to first place a bit of fibrefill at the bottom, to prevent the filling from spilling through the magic ring hole (in case the yarn comes loose).

Don‘t fill the whole body, or it‘ll be hard to sew the head to the body. Fill ¾ of the body and use fibrefill for the rest.

Before you sew the head to the body and if you have already placed the safety eyes, place the head in a way, that the eyes face forward. Leave enough space for the muzzle or pin it to the head, so you can get a picture on how to place the head to the body.

Start to sew the head to the body, but leave a little gap at the end. Stuff more fibrefill into the hole, so that the neck is firmly shaped. If you add too little fibrefill here, the head will wobble around instead of sitting on its place.

2 – Legs to Body:

Make sure that the hole from the MR is tightly closed, otherwise you will see the filling through the gap. Stuff all four legs with fibrefill and then place them however you want. I chose the face-hugging version, since it made me laugh so much when Zeus suddenly had a piglet in his face XD

Before you start to sew, secure the hind legs with pins. Then repeat the same with the front legs. Remember to first make sure that the tooth fits in between the head and the front legs (means, around the neck of the piglet). The tooth is quite big, so it would be best to first place it around the neck and then pin the front legs to its place, before you start to sew them to the body.

3 – Ears

Sew the 2 little hearts into the upper centre of the ears, with the pointy part of the heart facing upwards = the pointy part of the ears (Muzzle gets also sewed on with the pointy part upwards, look picture below). Note that I sewed them on differently, with the pointy part downwards, because I liked it better this way. 

 

Then fold the ear into half and sew the last row together, so the ear gets its ear-shape.

Next, place the ear to the head.

If you have already placed the safety eyes on the head, use them to find the best place to attach the ears. They should be at the same height and a little sideways to the eyes.

If you don‘t already have added the eyes, then placed it to the 9th round from the head, but you can

position it where you want, to change his expression. If you place it on the 9th round, then also sew a part of the ear to the 6th round of the head, so the ear won‘t flop down ^^

Repeat the same with the other ear.

4 – Muzzle/Nose

Before you sew the Nose to the head, embroider two dots in light pink inside the round parts of the heart. Those are the nostrils.
Then place it between the ears and more to the bottom of the head. Again, place the pointy part of the heart upwards.
I sewed about ¾ of the nose to the head and then stuffed it a bit, so it wouldn‘t look too flat and more like an actual muzzle. But like always, that‘s totally up to you.
Additionally I also used some leftover peach yarn, brushed (yes, with a brush for cats) it and used the felt to hide the stitches and gaps in the heart, to make it look smoother.

5 – Eyes

If you haven‘t already placed the safety eyes on the head, then sew either two buttons on or two round pieces of felt. I used some leftover yarn, brushed it and used the felt and a felting needle to make the eyes like they look in the picture. If you want to know how to create felt eyes, click → Here
Of course you can give your little piglet another facial expression, one like the smiling Taffy face for example or any other kawaii expression you want.

6 – The tooth

Use a long piece of brown yarn and wrap it around the big part of the tooth. Stitch one time trough the tooth, to make the necklace look like in the picture.

On the left side of the necklace, next to the big part of the tooth, add first a bigger blue bead and then a smaller yellow one. Remember to leave enough yarn to tie the tooth around the piglets neck.

7 – Cloak

First, sew in the endings of the yarn. Try to hide them as good as possible, since both sides of the cloak can be seen (depending on how you drape it on Caesar).
Originally the cloak was part of Caesar‘s school uniform and had two sleeves, but thankfully they seem to vanish, once he transforms into a piglet. Otherwise we would have had to crochet two tiny sleeves as well!
Put since that‘s not the case, lets place the cloak to the piglet.
Place the cloak on the piglets back, with the big red part placed flat on the head.

Now wrap the necklace around the neck and tie the endings above the cloak together. Then clap the red part of the cloak down and violá! You have successfully added the cloak to your piglet!

8 – Tail

Depending in which position you decided to place Caesar, if you want him to sit, or stand on his legs, you have to find the best spot to place the tail to the bottom of the body. My plushie sits on its bottom, so I placed the tail in the centre of his back and a little above where the body touches the ground.
Make sure it sticks a little out from under the cloak – it would be a shame to not see the cute curly tail ^^ 

9 – Shaping

As a finishing touch I always use to shape my finished works into how I want them to look like. Sometimes when you sew parts on your work, they get squeezed together.
Use the picture from the game to shape your piglet into the right form and to position the cloak and necklace.

Now you have a nice piece of handmade fanart!
Thanks for using my pattern and if you notice any mistakes or have an idea on how to improve it, please let me know (dawnire@gmail.com).

A big thank you also to NTT Solmare for letting me share this pattern!

-Dawn-